Info-Leeches and other E-Invertebrates

What is the method behind the sizing of motorcycle tires? Why do certain motorcycles have certain tire sizes? Do the fatter tires you see on most bikes make the motorcycle handle better? How does one read the tire specification numbers on the tire sidewalls?

These are some of the basic questions I had when I first got into motorcycling. I will address each of these questions based on my research and personal experience.

There are numerous reasons why certain motorcycles have certain tires. As any sales person will tell you in their showroom, the intended use and desired performance of the motorcycle help determine the tire size. For example, most dual-purpose motorcycles like the BMW GS 1200 R and Kawasaki KLX 250 and KLR 650 will have tires suited for both off-road and street use. The KLX 250 tires will be more aggressive on the knobby side than the other dual-purpose motorcycles. Street bikes like the Kawasaki ZZR1200, will have a differently size tire than a touring and dual-purpose bike. Again, it all comes down to the intended use of the motorcycle.

When it comes to replacing the OEM stock tires, it is always wise to use a replacement tire with the same size as the stock tire for which you are replacing. The main reason for this is that the rims on your bike were designed to be outfitted with certain sized tires. Therefore, you need the correct size to fit on the stock rim.

Installing the correct size also implies that the tires have the same circumference. Having two different tire circumferences will have negative effects on your motorcycle’s tire grip and overall handling. Why is this so? A motorcycle’s rake and trail and the front and rear weight bias are affected by the ride height of the front and rear ride height. This is why tire circumference is important.

Recently with motorcycles like the Victory Hammer, you see more fat and wider tires being installed on motorcycles for both performance and style. Be sure the stock rim is designed to handle these wider tires. If you are installing a wider tire on a narrower rim for which it was not designed to handle, the footprint of the tire diminishes due to the profile being wrong. Another thing to be cautious of is that a wider tire may not have enough clearance once installed and rub against the fender or swing arm.

The bottom line is that the sizing of tires for certain motorcycles is determined by the factory motorcycle and tire engineers. They know their science well and know what works best on certain motorcycles. They have devised a numbering system which is used when replacing your tire. It is not a user-friendly numbering system but it makes sense to the tire manufacturers. For example a 100/80-18 tire means the 100 is the nominal width in millimeters. The 80 is the aspect ratio, and refers to the height of the tire as a percentage of the width (in this case 80 percent of 100mm). The 18 is the wheel’s diameter in inches for which the tire is designed to fit. So replace your tires based on what your manual says. Why risk putting on a different size tire just for looks at the risk of safety and performance.

Contributing author to Cycle Solutions
http://www.cyclesolutions.net

And Kingpin Cruisers
http://www.kingpincruisers.net

What are Mini moto’s? A Minimoto is a miniature version of a real GP racing motorcycle; it just doesn’t go as fast as one. There pocket bikes are available in many different makes and styles, many of which look just like real racing bikes but in a miniture version such as those found on GhostRacingSeries website.

Who Makes Minimoto’s? There is many Mini Moto models and manufacturers. The more expensive pocketbikes and professional bikes are built in Czechoslovakia by Blata and GRC of Italy. Other well known brands are Polini and ZPF.

Recently manufacturers from China have made a big difference to minimoto racing sport. With mass production making minimoto’s more affordable and much more popular. Here in the UK minimoto racing is one of the fastest growing sports. We occasionally hear people say that the Chinese bikes are rubbish and quickly fall apart however companies like http://www.ghostracingseries.com supply exceptionally high quality replica minimoto’s. These minimoto’s start from just £150 each!

Styles of Minimoto’s? As the market grows, lots of trends are set. Amongst the most popular is the Ghost Racing Series Moto GP reps. They come in various styles including Rizla Moto Gp Mini moto, Camel Moto Gp Mini moto, Telefonica Moto Gp Mini moto, Repsol Moto Gp Mini moto, Shell Adavance Moto Gp Mini moto.

Whats different with the Ghost Racing Series minimoto’s?
Ghost Minimoto’s come with the following extras: Over £100 of Fitted extra’s come as standard including:
Performace Exhaust – Expansion Chamber + Polished Silencer K&N Style Performance Air Filter Upgraded Heavy Duty Chain & Sprockets Race Quality Reed Valves Uprated Brake Calipers + Thicker Brake Discs Upgraded Forks with Alloy Wheel Clamps High Quality Welding & Stronger Frame Alloy Brake Levers Alloy Yorks High Compression Engine with 19mm Transfer Ports for High Revs Soft Grip Performance Hand Grips High Quality Fairings Painted Hubs & Polished Rims

http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com

http://www.GhostRacingSeries.com

For a two-stroke engine, having a fresh spark plug is incredibly important. So you should check your plug often.

By “reading” the color of the plug you can tell a lot of things about how the engine is running. The top of a new spark plug is covered in white ceramic insulation. If your engine is running perfectly, then this part of the plug would soon become a tan color. If your plug is grey or white, than you know that your engine is running too lean and you need to take steps to prevent engine damage. First, clean your fuel system, looking for any blockage. Dirt in your carb can cause the bike to run lean. Check your fuel mixture to see if you are mixing the oil and fuel in the correct proportions (50 parts fuel to 1 part oil). There are many factors that can cause an oil and fuel mixture that worked great to become less than ideal. The brand of the gas and the oil as well as air density can affect how well the mixture works.

The lean condition can also be caused by fresh air entering the engine somewhere it shouldn’t. So you should look for loose intake manifold bolts, leaks in the carburetor mounting, faulty gaskets and leaks in the crank seals. You may also need to change to a larger carburetor jet.

If your spark plug is black or oily than that means the engine is running too rich and is not properly combusting fuel. This problem can be caused by too much oil in the fuel and oil mixture and/or having a faulty spark plug that is misfiring. First, you should figure out if the spark plug is the problem. To do so, touch the electrode end of the plug to the engine while pulling the starter. If the sparks that result are blue, then you know you have a fully functioning plug. Install the plug and run the bike for a few minutes. Then stop the bike, remove the spark plug and look at it. If the plug is dark and oily, then you know that the problem is not your plug. You should check your oil and fuel mixture. If the bike’s engine stumbles, sounds clogged up or doesn’t run clear than you might want to get a smaller carburetor jet.

While you should regularly inspect your spark plug, it is essential to check your plug after any type of engine modification to make sure the engine isn’t running too lean. For standard use, the NGK B7HS short thread plugs and B9ES long thread plugs are recommended. For use in competition, the NGK B7HS-10 short thread plugs and the NGK BR9EIX long thread plugs are recommended.

First check your coil for a healthy spark. Use a fresh plug and ground the electrode to the engine while pulling the starter - the spark should be a healthy blue. If so, install the fresh plug, and operate the bike normally for a few minutes, remove the new plug and “read” it. If it still appears blackened or oily, the problem lies elsewhere. A hotter plug in not recommended - make sure your fuel mix is correct, and consider a smaller jet only if the bike stumbles or sounds “full of snot” and doesn’t run crisp. Operating your bike a little too rich won’t hurt it - but too lean is never good. A little dirt in your carb could cause it to run lean, and you wouldn’t even know why your bike was running so nice and crisp until it seized

Gerry runs the website PocketBike Info which is a collection of various articles on Pocketbikes.

Since the dawn of the age of motorcycling, it was apparent that something was needed to protect the exposed human body from the elements. The natural solution was leather. The leather motorcycle jacket, a style made popular by such movie icons as James Dean and “the Fonz”, not only serves as a fashion statement, but is an essential piece of equipment to any serious biker for keeping warm, dry, and in one piece. A good “riding grade” leather jacket combined with motorcycle chaps or leather pants, will act as a second skin between you and the road, and can quite literally “save your hide”. With all this in mind, let’s explore the things to consider when purchasing motorcycle leathers.

The most common material for motorcycle leather is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. Buffalo hide, another high quality leather, is made not from the U.S. buffalo, but the water buffalo most commonly found in India and Pakistan. Many leather products come from this part of the world, and the Pakistanis are world renown for their expertise in the manufacturing of leather garments. Whichever type of hide you choose, you must understand the tanning process, and how it adds or detracts from the quality of the leather.

Leather was of course once the skin of an animal, and therefore must go through a tanning process to strengthen it, and to keep it from decomposing. Tanning makes the skin stable and rot proof without sacrificing its structure and strength. The tanning process involves several stages, including the removal of the hair and the outer layer of skin, as well as the fatty part of the flesh. The hide is then stabilized by one of several methods using animal oils, alum, chrome salts or vegetable tanning. How it is actually finished determines the quality, or riding grade, for our purposes.

Types of Leather
To fully understand the types of leather available, one must first know the term “grain”. The grain is simply the epidermis, or outer layer of the animal’s skin. While imperfections such as cuts, scars, and scratches will exist, the grain in its natural state has the best fiber strength, and therefore the best durability. The grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort to the wearer.

Finished Split Leather
The middle or lower section of a hide that has been split into two or more thicknesses. A polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic grain leather. Finished splits should only be used in low stress applications because they basically have no grain. If the polymer coating is left out it is often used to make suede. Not considered to be riding grade, but can look good nevertheless.

Top Grain

Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is not the same quality as full grain or naked leather, but thicknesses of 1.2-3mm make this type of leather a very strong and durable riding grade material.

Full-Grain and Naked Leather
Full-Grain leather is made from the finest hides, and has not been sanded to remove imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. In the case of Naked Leather, where nothing other than the dye is added; this very soft leather requires no breaking in period. Hides are typically 2mm thick, and must be hand picked for uniformity. The natural full-grain naked leather will wear better than other leather, and will actually improve over the years. This type of leather is the ultimate riding grade; the most sought after, and consequently, the most expensive.

Now that we know what type of leather we want, we must understand the fact that leather is hot, and understand the options that we have for the climate we live in. For winter biking, a jacket with side laces and a belt will allow you to adjust the jacket to fit snugly against the upper body. Of course, being able to fully zip up only adds to your protection from the wind. You can also wear a leather vest underneath your motorcycle jacket for extra warmth. For hot summer days, a leather jacket with air vents allows the air to circulate underneath the jacket and around your body. For an all year round jacket, consider one with a zip or snap out insulated lining.

Leather is not meant to get wet, as that tends to deplete the natural oils, and it is advisable to wear a rain suit over your leathers in inclement weather. However if they do get wet, allow them to dry naturally away from extreme heat. If the leather seems to be losing its luster, it can be oiled to improve its appearance. This supplements the natural oils in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather with mink oil or other commercially available products will keep your leathers supple and improve their lifespan dramatically.

Now that you have found the perfect biker jacket, take care of it, and it will reward you with years of wear. The typical lifetime of a heavy textile jacket will be from 3 to 6 years at the most. A well maintained top quality leather motorcycle jacket will easily give you 10 years and more of riding pleasure!

About the Author:
Michael Talbert is the founder of Florida based Biker Leather Ltd., an online retailer of leather and textile
motorcycle apparel.

For more information on naked leather and top grain leather motorcycle jackets, you can visit this web page at http://NakedLeatherBiker.com.

Many mini moto modifications will require you to remove the engine from the mini moto. This is why I have produced the following guide.

Firstly you will need to remove the mini moto’s fairing.

Start with the seat fairing, unscrew the four seat screws and remove the seat. Unscrew the screw at the front end of the seat fairing and remove the petrol cap. The fairing can now be lifted from the mini moto. Replace the fuel tank petrol cap and remove the fuel tank by pulling the rubber tube of the nipple on the top of the carburettor. You may want to double the rubber fuel tube over and secure it in this position with a clothes peg. This is to stop fuel leaking out.

Remove the bottom fairing by unscrewing the holding bolts (two on each side), this frees the bottom fairing from the top. Unscrew the two bolts on the underside of the bottom fairing. The bottom fairing is now free. The top fairing is only now held on by one last bolt located in between the handle bars at the front of the mini moto.

Once you have removed the fairing, you will need to take the chain off the front sprocket. To do this loosen the back wheel nuts and the tensioning bolts. The back wheel can now be manoeuvred toward the front sprocket loosing the chain. When the chain is loose enough you can remove it from the front sprocket.

Remove the pull start from the engine by unscrewing the three holding screws. Once the pull start has been removed you will see the wire that comes from the stop switch. Unplug this.

The throttle cable can be removed from its fitting on the top of the carburettor. Pull the rubber seal up so that the locking nut can be unscrewed, the throttle can now be pulled from the carburettor along with the needle valve and spring.

The next step is to Remove the Exhaust. The exhaust is fixed to the mini motos frame by a bolt located just under the seat fairing toward the back of your mini moto. Undo this bolt with a spanner and an alan key. The exhaust is fixed to the underside of the engine by two bolts via a gasket. Remove the two bolts with an alan key making sure that you do not lose the gasket washer. The exhaust can now be slid out past the engine and removed form the mini moto.

The engine is free from its mechanical fittings, the engine then needs to be removed from the mini motos frame. The bolt at the top of the engine must be undone first using the alan key. The three screws located on the underside of the engine are the last fixings to be undone. The engine can now be completely removed from the mini moto.

Matt Tong has been importing and riding Mini Motos for two years. For expert advice and Mini Moto information please visit http://www.minimotosandmore.com

It’s that time of year. The time when you decide it’s fine to ride in 12 degree weather. The time when your food and water freezes, your hands and feet go numb, and your bike gets covered in water and road salt…

It’s the time of year when you decide that you were a freakin idiot for going outside!

That “time of year” for me was yesterday. My first ride outside in sub 25 degree weather. It’s the same every year. Through spring, summer, and fall you tend to forget just how bad it is… and you think you’re tough enough to handle it. Well… you’re not!

Just one ride brings back the painful experiences of just one year ago. The warming of frostbitten hands and feet - what a way to end a ride! It’s enough to make me want to stay out in the cold!

I even bought a trainer this year. And I wore it out after a month. So, inevitably, I rode outside in frigid temperatures. Now I’m getting ready to buy some rollers. Then I’ll stay inside like a sane person!

Perhaps I’ll even pick up some workout videos. I have a CTS mountain biking video, the Spinervals might be ok, but I’m more interested in the Cyclo-core workouts. [See resource box below.] There’s a little bit of everything - riding, light lifting, etc. - and best of all: just 30-60 minutes each!

You get to stay inside, avoid trainer boredom, and you don’t even have to go to the gym! Definitely too good to pass up!

Even if you don’t want to buy anything, check out the site for a free special report: “Five Secrets to Double Your Off-Season Fitness”

Moral of the story: This is the off-season. Don’t ride outside if it’s below 25 degrees. And feel free to use this as an excuse to spend the winter in California!

Levi Bloom is the owner of Bloom Bike Shop and the webmaster of http://bloombikeshop.com

Check out his site for more useful articles on cycling and bike repair. And if you’re interested in CycloCore workouts, check out http://bloombikeshop.com/cyclocore

It’s a crystal clear, calm spring morning. The air is clean and fresh, the sun is starting to warm up your body and the sky is blue. Like most mornings you are out on your bike. You have been riding for maybe an hour, but you are not exactly sure. On a day like today, who is counting the minutes anyways? You are headed towards the top of the highest mountain on today’s ride. Your body is responding well to the requirements of the climb and your mind is calm and clear. You are focused. You are not drifting away today, like you do on some days, you find a sort of inner peace. Just you, the bike and the road leading up to the top. No thinking about the bills that need to be paid, the yard-work you have been putting off for the last 2 weeks or how your toughest competitors will do this season.

At this moment, you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else, or do anything else. As you work your way up along the narrow, winding road, you are constantly looking for that next “nature experience”. You know this is deer and moose country. Last fall you hiked up the side of this mountain many times, hunting the “king of the forest”. When you plan training rides, you always try to find areas rich in wildlife. What if you can see a big bull, or a maybe a doe with her fawn? As you turn the corner and the forest opens up into an open alpine bog, you see them! The doe is gracing at the edge of the forest, the fawn is running around, playing. He seems to be enjoying the day as much as you are. They haven’t seen you yet. You slow down and watch them for a little while before the doe notices you and with a graceful jump she is gone, into the forest. It’s almost as if the trees swallowed her and the little one.

You increase the pace again, returning to your efficient pedal candence. The adrenaline is rushing through your body, this short encounter revitalized you, it gave you an extra boost of energy. As you reach the top of the climb, the area surrounding the mountain lays beneath you. You can see the city down there, with the commuters stuck in rush traffic. Moments like that makes you appreciate your life. That you are given the opportunity, time and resources to do this! On days like today you understand how privileged you are. Cycling is so much more than just races, victories and losses. The feeling of being in top shape, that you have the energy and strength to ride your bike 150 miles, run for hours or ski across the mountain, that is what’s all about.

I am a full-time endurance athlete, working towards the 2012 London Olympics. I maintain a blog, describing my ups and downs of training / racing.
http://roadrace1.blogspot.com

The Harley Softail is one of the most classically recognized motorcycles in America. Its bold angles and brut force make the Softail the bike against which others are compared. Its classic design makes it a good launching point for mild or extreme customization. By adding original or custom built Softail parts found in specialty shops online, you can create a truly custom yet classic bike that will stand out in the crowd.

Classic Softail Parts
America’s true fascination with motorcycles and its culture of freedom really kicked into gear in the 1950’s with the Harley Davidson Softail. Harley brought back this nostalgia in 1997 when Harley released its Heritage Softail Classic. If you’re looking to add some classic features to the look of your bike, try combining some classic Softail parts like fishtail exhaust pipes and 5” running lamps with other modern elements to create a truly custom look and feel.

New Softail Parts
Harley released 6 new Softail models with a variety of engineering and design updates. Some of the new Softail parts include 49mm forks, the 6 speed Cruise Drive transmission, and a 200mm rear tire and fender. In addition to these new Softail parts, Harley Davidson will offer 8 new paint options and color combinations in 2006.

Building a custom Softail from the ground up
If your goal is to build a completely customized Harley Softail, parts are abundant and easy to find on the internet. You can find enough of a variety of Softail parts to rebuild an entire chopper from the chassis to the gas tank mount, either staying true to the bike’s original design or making alterations to create your own style.

Classic Softail Accessories
To create a look with a smart blend of classic style and cutting edge modern design, try working in some classic Softail parts and accessories like the classic style grips and foot pegs, chrome handlebar risers, or headlamp. Combine this with a slick paint job, a wide tire kit, and a modern wheel design.

The Softail is a great motorcycle to customize because of its classically bold features that work well with today’s more edgy design. Softail parts are available as OEM parts, exact replicas, or designed custom from the original part. No matter your vision, you’re likely to find Softail parts that can help you bring idea to life.

Author is a small business internet marketing consultant and the cofounder of nGenuity Solutions.

For additional information on Harley Softail parts, please visit http://www.JirehCycles.com.

This is always a difficult one to answer when shopping for motorcycle parts and I firmly believe that each one of us must decide what’s best for our bikes AFTER carefully evaluating each of the possibilities.

For me?

Well… it really depends on what I am looking for - just replacement or improvement - , the availability of the part, my budget and other things. Sometimes I buy OEM, others aftermarket motorcycle parts.

Keep reading. You will find some views that will hopefully help you decide the next time you shop for motorcycle parts.

What a heck are OEM parts??

OEM parts stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer parts which not necessarily mean the OM (Original Manufacturer) actually produced them. You know, many motorcycle and automobile manufacturers don’t manufacture each of the parts used in their vehicles. They frequently have the parts designed and manufactured by outside independent companies and then, install them in their machines or put them in their own boxes to be sold as OEM parts!

Good to know when buying OEM Motorcycle Parts:

When you buy OEM Motorcycle Parts you are buying the exact same original part the manufacturer used to build your motorcycle, that means:

>> Same performance as the part installed in your motorcycle right now. The part won’t be better nor worse than the original part you want to replace.

>> Normally OEM parts a more (in some cases MUCH more) expensive than aftermarket parts.

>> Motorcycle and car agencies clerks will normally tell you OEM Parts are higher quality and the best option for replacements. Is this true? Well sometimes it is, sometimes it’s not.

>> Normally after a certain period of time, the manufacturer will allow the company that originally designed/produced the part to sell it in their own box at a considerably lower cost, making it: an Aftermarket OEM part!

>> BE CAREFUL if your bike is still in its guarantee period make sure you use only OEM parts and have them installed by authorized mechanics. If you don’t do so, you will probably void the guarantee.

What about Aftermarket parts??

Aftermarket parts should perform as well as OEM parts but are produced by companies other than the original manufacturer(s).

Things to know when buying Aftermarket Motorcycle Parts:

>> MAKE SURE YOUR GUARANTEE PERIOD IS OVER. In many cases, you can VOID your guarantee if you have an aftermarket part installed by an unauthorized mechanic in your machine. I know I said it before, but it’s worth repeating; I happened to me!

>> Equivalent aftermarket Suzuki motorcycle parts are normally cheaper than OEM parts. Sometimes up to 70% cheaper!

>> Aftermarket parts can have lower,the same or higher quality than the original.

>> When buying aftermarket parts make sure you are getting AT LEAST the same quality as the OEM part. If possible try to get some reviews about brands and performance. You can do it in the Internet, with your favorite mechanic or with fellow riders.

>> If you are looking for high performance parts and devices, you know the kind: carbon fiber, titanium, aerospace aluminum parts and gizmos, well you will probably find them as aftermarket motorcycle parts.

OEM or aftermarket motorcycle parts, sooner or later you will be shopping for them…

Enjoy the ride!

Daniel Levy

Daniel Levy is the owner and contributing writer of http://www.Japanese-Motorcycles-Only.com . He loves motorcycles and Web development. For more great info visit http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/

If you need motorcycle parts, check out BikeBandit: my favorite online store for motorcycle parts. You will find a full review of their business in this page:http://www.japanese-motorcycles-only.com/bike-bandit.html

The minimoto carbon race reed is an easy to fit performance part which is designed to give optimum engine fuelling conditions providing large gains in acceleration and top speed. The standard reeds used in all air cooled Chinese minimotos are manufactured from stainless steel and are prone to flutter at high revs resulting in a loss of power and engine stuttering Following are the easy to follow instructions for fitting your performance carbon race reeds:-

Fitting of minimoto carbon race reeds

1) First of all remove the black air filter unit from the rear of the carburator by undoing and removing the two crosshead
securing screws.

2) Ensure the petrol tap is turned OFF and remove the petrol pipe from the carburator by depressing the retaining clip and gently pulling clear.

3) Undo the knurled top of the carburator and lift off carefully, the throttle slide which is attached to the throttle cable will lift clear.

4) Then undo and remove the two Allen screws which go through the carburator body securing it to the engine, and lift the carb away.

5) Undo and remove the 4 Allen screws that retain the carburator manifold and reed block and lift clear.

6) The reed block has 2 crosshead screws which retain the reed (the standard reed being stainless and split). Undo the two crosshead screws then remove the standard stainless reed and replace with the carbon race reed.
Note: To get more power you can remove the centre bar of the reed manifold by using a small saw (this is optional).

7) Now just reverse the procedure using thread locking compound on all screws to ensure they do not vibrate loose it.

Now experience and enjoy the power gains from your newly fitted carbon race reeds.

Minimotos4u carbon race reeds are made from Pre-preg dual laminate carbon fibre sheet cut to within 0.1mm tolerance.

David Welton is the Director of Minimotos4u http://www.minimotos4u.com with over 20 years of motorcycle experience and a clear passion for minimotos.
Minimotos4u http://www.minimotos4u.com is a family run business based in North Lincolnshire. With over experience of supplying customers with top quality certified minimotos from the most reputable suppliers. We carry extensive stocks of minimoto spares, performance parts, minimoto decals and much more. Specialising in race tuned minimotos in MotoGP livery, we also stock dirt bikes and can cater for all your minimoto needs. For the personal touch contact Minimotos4u http://www.minimotos4u.com
or e-mail dave@minimotos4u.com